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May 03, 2023

The Ultimate Guide to Every Type of Mascara

From water-based mascara to waterproof formulas, we explain the differences.

Not all mascaras are built the same. While the sole purpose of some is to give your lashes length, others deliver a long-lasting curl — or are made to withstand water-packed activities, like swimming, sweating, or crying over Taylor Swift's latest breakup song.

In other words, finding the right mascara formula isn't as straightforward as it might seem. Before you spring for your next tube, consider the differences between mascara formulas, from water-based mascara to tubing formulations. With this know-how, it'll be that much easier to find the right mascara for each and every eye-makeup look.

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As cosmetic chemist Ginger King explains, a water-based mascara is a mascara that has water as the primary solvent in its formulation. "It usually gives the lash some tint and looks natural," she says.

Plus, it makes for a great option for those with sensitive eyes. They're "a gentler option on the eye because they have fewer chemicals and no added oils," says celebrity makeup artist Timothy Mackay. "This also makes them great for those who have eyelash extensions. The oils won't break down the glue, and the formula is easy to remove." Mackay recommends the YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume for a water-based formula that gives you a long-lasting strong curl and vibrant color.

You may also want to turn to this if you're looking for product that isn't too heavy. "They don't weigh down the lashes," says celebrity makeup artist Glenn Brownell. "So they’ll hold a curl better."

The aptly named tubing mascara forms tiny tubes around each lash to give them a built-in lengthening effect. These tubes are made with polymers that won't smudge and can be easily removed with warm water, says King.

As a result, a tubing mascara "is ideal for shorter or sparse lashes," says Brownell, who considers the Merit Clean Lash Lengthening Tubing Mascara his holy grail. "It's the perfect inky-black and is buildable," he says.

For long, dramatic lashes, turn to a fiber mascara. Made with rayon or nylon fibers, this mascara makes lashes appear longer and fuller, says King. How? "It is typically a waxed-based formula that lengthens the appearance of lashes by adding micro-fibers to the hair," Mackay says, adding that he loves the Lorac Pro Plus Fiber Mascara. "This can give a lash-extension effect and also add fullness to sparse lashes."

Plus, you also get some variety here. f you want natural-looking definition (to give that no-makeup makeup look), Brownell recommends Glossier Lash Slick And Lengthening Mascara. For drama and bold lashes, try L’Oréal Voluminous False Fibers Lashes Mascara.

Planning that beach vacay where you need your lashes to stay intact for all the #content — or getting ready for your little sister's wedding? Then a waterproof mascara is for you. Made with a blend of waxes and silicones for product adhesion, waterproof mascara doesn't break down easily when exposed to water. "They work well to repel water, and prevent the product from smudging, running, or budging," says Mackay, who likes Lancôme Monsieur Big Waterproof Mascara.

Because it's waterproof, however, it may be more difficult to remove compared to other mascaras. Use an oil-based makeup remover and being very gentle when taking it off, so you don't cause irritation to the eye area or pull on your lashes.

Since waterproof mascara isn't easy to remove or especially gentle on the lashes, consider Shiseido ImperialLash MascaraInk for everyday use; while it's not truly waterproof, its deep, jet-black shade that won't budge and add major volume, says Brownell.

When mascara says clump-free, that means that it has the right brush to evenly disperse product. In other words, "it does not create spider-leg looks when you apply your mascara," says King. "The brushes are more separated in bristles, so you don't get a chunk of mascaras when you apply."

Another bonus: "A clump-free mascara will typically contain conditioning agents, such as polymers and vitamins, to help the product glide smoothly," Mackay adds. "While the brush to apply will have enough bristles to comb through lashes and prevent buildup." He reaches for Lancôme Lash Idol Lash-Lifting & Volumizing Mascara, while Brownell likes the Kevyn Aucoin The Volume Mascara.

To get a thick, full look, volumizing mascara usually has more fiber and wax in its formula to make your lashes look, well, thicker and fuller, says King. It also has a denser bristle brush to add some body. Brownell likes Nars Climax Mascara, which can give you you that "more is more" look without clumping.

Just as a makeup primer helps makeup stay on longer, a mascara primer prolongs the wear of your mascara. "It's a conditioning coating to help grab on the actual mascara," says King. Brownell compares it to double-sided tape.

Mascara primers can also help add length and definition. "A mascara primer conditions the lash to help with the application of mascara, while also adding a thickening layer to the lashes," says Mackay. "Applying mascara over a primer will create a thicker, more dramatic effect." Try L'Oréal Voluminous Lash Primer, which is a favorite of Brownell's.

Your bottom lashes don't need a completely different formula, but you should consider using a different brush. "Because the bottom lashes are closer to skin and can easily get smudged, bottom-lash mascara brushes or combs are usually tiny," explains King. "Some of them are even just a rod without brushes or comb. They're meant to give some color to the bottom lashes only."

It's worth the extra mile, "because lower lashes tend to be much finer and sparser than your top lashes," Brownell says. However, he recommends avoiding rich eye creams, since the oil in them could break down the product. He recommends It Cosmetics Tightline 3-in-1 Mascara Black Lash Primer. "It has the cutest, tiniest brush that clings on to lashes you didn't even know you had," he says.

While the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) has yet to define the term "clean," each brand has its own standard through which they determine which ingredients they keep out of formulas.

"Clean mascara will follow all non-regulated clean beauty standards set out by the retailers. For example, Credo Beauty has the most extensive 'dirty' list," King says. "Usually, you will not find ingredients like parabens or ethoxylated materials in the formula." Also, the formula might be vegan, meaning it doesn't contain animal-derived ingredients like beeswax. If you're looking to go the clean route, Brownwell likes the Kosas The Big Clean Longwear Volumizing + Lash Care Mascara for volume, or Westman Atelier Eye Love You.

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